These were the 2 days I've been waiting to see since my first ill-fated trip to Jackson Hole in March
1986.
Saturday morning I was with a NASJA group of about 5 and JH snowboarder guide Jason. With another 5
inches new snow underlying crust or moguls were becoming less prominent each day. We skied Paintbrush,
Tensleep Bowl and some trees near the Thunder chair, then headed down to take one tram run before lunch.
I got separated from the group when I went to switch skis to the Chubbs. For my one tram ride of this
trip I skied skier's left of Rendezvous Bowl near the trees (wind and visibility weren't great up
there) and then North Hoback, which was already better than my one previous run there back in February
1995.
At 2PM Patrick and I met up with Bob Peters, a 30-year Jackson resident that I met on another forum. For
those interested in a local take on the finer points of JH skiing, check out
http://forums.epicski.com/showthread.php?t=16592 .
By this time the storm had cranked up and it was dumping snow with plenty of fog. Just after we started
skiing we crossed a cat track where a lady from Atlanta was nauseated from vertigo. As a former patroller
Bob attended to her and called in the patrol to take her down the hill in the meat wagon, while Patrick
and I ran a lap in the Thunder trees.
Bob caught up and asked what we wanted, and I requested to maximize powder and minimize bumps or crust
underneath it. The next two hours were a blur as we moved among the Bridger gondola and the Thunder and
Casper chairs, crossing trails and linking tree stashes. Patrick estimated that 80% of the 10K vertical
we skied with Bob were fresh tracks. "Bits and pieces" skiing was what Bob called it. There was
one long open powder run on South Colter Ridge with just enough scattered trees around to maintain
orientation. Saturday's total was 21,100 with 11K of powder.
The storm continued intensely until about 9PM. My NASJA dine-around in Teton Village was at Cascade, an
outstanding restaurant in the ideally located Teton Mountain Lodge that was developed by Rob DesLauriers.
He knows his real estate as well as his skiing, as Teton Mountain Lodge is impeccably decorated and the
1BR suites our host showed us after dinner go for $850 a night. Teton Mountain Lodge has 58% year/round
occupancy (that means 90% in ski season and 80% in summer) and is considered the second most desirable
property in Teton Village after the Four Seasons.
NASJA was bussed over Teton Pass to Targhee on Sunday. I remained in Jackson as I had been to Targhee
Wednesday. Patrick arrived from town about 8:30AM and we walked over to the tram and gondola, where the
powderhounds were out in force after 11 inches in the past 24 hours and 21 in the past 3 days. We chose
the 10-minute gondola line over the 90-minute tram line. At the top Patrick started to retrieve his
camera from the backpack that had taken the long slide at Big Sky, so we parted company. I later learned
that he had found the best route from gondola to Thunder, a winding traverse and sidestep over a couple
of cliff bands to the Cirque, which retained decent powder through most of the day.
Meanwhile I was intent on making a beeline for Thunder and Sublette to get to the Hobacks. Once on
Sublette I was lured to return twice by its small to moderate liftline and by the freshies available in
Alta 1 and Bivouac. 3rd run into South Hoback ~10:15AM was still sweet. There were lots of tracks but
it's so huge that there was plenty of room to make your own for at least 2,000 vertical. Next time up
the gondola I went north to Moran Woods. These were fairly chopped up, but at Jackson's water content
the chowder skis more like powder and less like Sierra snow that tends to be stiffer once it's
tracked. After another lap through Thunder and down lower Sublette Ridge I needed a lunch break about
1PM.
As I came out of lunch I ran into Patrick who had not yet stopped. When we got to the top of the gondola
he decided he could use some lunch so we agreed to meet at 3PM for last tram. Patrick arrived 2:55 and I
at 3:02 after a run on South Colter. The attendant announced 2 trams in the maze would be allowed to go
up, and I calculated that Patrick would make it and I would not. So I hustled out, eventually squeaked
onto Sublette chair just before its 3:40 closing, and headed down North Hoback at the edge of the trees.
This time I dropped through a small cliff band into Cheyenne Gully and found a traverse out the other
side to some intermediate pitched trees that provided the final fresh tracks of the day.
I have mentioned before that I think total vertical + powder vertical is not a bad measure of the quality
of a ski day. Sunday 1/29/06 was 31,300 vertical, 12K of powder, only my 12th day lifetime that number
has exceeded 40K. And given Jackson Hole's terrain and powder it was a memorable day by anyone's
subjective measure.
- From Teton Village patrol tracks are visible Sunday morning before the mountain
opens.
- JH_patrol_tracks.JPG (34.8 KiB) Viewed 4115 times
- Alta Chute #1 at left from the Sublette chair. I saw a few airs off rocks but not in time to
get any pics.
- JH_alta_chute.JPG (24.32 KiB) Viewed 4115 times
- In the Hobacks there is a skier in the lower left quadrant of this pic, but he is just a
speck at this resolution.
- JH_hobacks.JPG (17.27 KiB) Viewed 4115 times
- While waiting for the Bridger gondola a live band added to the festive atmosphere of a great
powder day.
- JH_bridger_band.JPG (40.18 KiB) Viewed 4115 times
- View down Moran Woods to Teton Village
- JH_moran_woods.JPG (35.26 KiB) Viewed 4114 times
- I've just started into Lower Sublette and spotted this skier. Hobacks are beyond the
trees in background.
- JH_cheyenne_gully.JPG (30.92 KiB) Viewed 4113 times
- Fresh tracks on Lower Sublette Ridge
- JH_lower_sublette.JPG (32 KiB) Viewed 4113 times
- I managed a mid-afternoon face shot in these trees. Tram ascending over cliffs near
Corbet's in background.
- JH_tram_trees.JPG (29.41 KiB) Viewed 4113 times